Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Thursday, 26 May 2011

Font a bloc Part One.

Printemps d'Automne.
Were 4 days into our week out here in Font and were on a rest day. Having climbed every day since we arrived, the batteries have taken a bit of a hammering. Its been 20+ degrees every day so were having to pick wisely. Thanks to Scott and Roo we've had a good guide and a fantastic time.

Sunday we hit 91.1 and spent the day doing the entire orange circuit while getting baked by the Sun, I flashed all but 2 of them. Crush Cooper & Scott flashed the lot! Ben, Gary, Jen and Justine enjoyed picking the good lines and the beauty of the forrest surroundings in the relaxed atmosphere. I was awarded Ern the Worm for letting the team down.

Jen at 91.1

Ern the Worm.
Monday's venue was Potala on the blue and red circuit Lee fell off Blue No 1 and was immediately awarded Ern the Worm. Hightlights were Printemps d'Automne for Lee and I, a great looking arete at F7a followed by la Poussiere que Tue a roof (sweet) that starts on some edges and comes to a sloper and little crimp deadpoint to a huge pocket to finish! Both Lee and I crushed it in under 3 goes, much to the disgust of the frog that was there working it. Hah!  My first 2 ticks in the 7&8's guide!

Ben using the Hands Off technique

Jen Cruising the Slab
la Poussiere que Tue
Lee on la Poussiere que Tue

Latching the Finish Jug on la Poussiere que Tue

By Tuesday morning the shoulders and forearms were feeling pretty shot, but we went out anyway to Isitis. Starting on some blue's and red's it wasn't long before we spotted a cool looking roof on White 10 got F7b+ from a sit but that looked brick hard so we settled on the stand at F6b. The top out was some classic font swimming goroveling on the rounded top desperate for a anything to hold onto, luckily Lee and I had packed out arm bands and stayed afloat long enough to send it. there was just enough time to sneak in a couple more red and whites before a relaxed lunch. Afterwards we crossed the path into Franchard Hautes-Plaines for a go on a overhanging problem called Surplomb de la Coquille. I flashed the stand at F6c and once the Lee and Ben had crushed it in, we started on the sit. Scott showed me how he did it but I was lacking some reach, so I inveneted some short arse beta and 2 goes later was holding the massive chicken head at the top grinning for the camera. As I was taking my boots off the police arrived and shouted GET OUT GET OUT BIG FIRE!! so we made a hasty retreat to a cafe in Barbizon for a beer.

White 10.

 Surplomb de la Coquille Axis F7a

 Surplomb de la Coquille Axis
We did venture to Bas Cuvier for an hour to put Lee and Ben on Marie Rose and I wanted a go on Canage but tiredness had taken his toll and I didnt get anywhere on Carnage.

La Marie Rose - Worlds most polished 6a.

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