Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Wednesday, 30 March 2011

Evil comes out at night...

Night Bouldering

Last night instead of our usual indoor session, I decided to make use of this extra hour we are now getting being on BST. We headed off to Caley for a night session.

We set to work at the roadsides boulders, all having different problems in mind. Scott wanted to get on Zoo York (F8a) Tom wanted to get on Secret Seventh (f7a+) and Lee and I were back to siege Blockbuster (F7b+)

It was a warm and humid evening - warm enough to be in a t shirt or wife beater. I wont bore you with descriptions of stuff.. None of us sent out projects it was just too humid. But we did get some cool pics and went to the Wetherby Whaler for some Chips! 


Lee Crushing

Ticking me wont make it easier!

Scott on JuJu Club

Wife Beaters!

Making it look easy.

My Epic Fall form Zoo York

The last attempt of the night... 

Monday, 28 March 2011

Back to Caley

This weekend was a return trip to Caley with a truckload of folks keen to prove their metal on the many classic test pieces. There was even a rumour Andy Jennings of Fontainebleau might make an appearance. I had a new custom T-Shirt to show off from BlockDesigns.  It sum's up my climbing style perfectly!


With us all in still in a slight haze from the previous nights alcohol intake we set out warming up by Psycho slab, it was soon onto fork lightening crack (V4 6a) which is always harder then it appears - no matter how many times I do it. The onto the traverse into lightening crack at F6c. Both were despatched for the camera's in usual style - pretty much footless. The girls showed us that you could actually use feet.

Anna Shepherd on Fork Lightening Crack
Scott then discovered I still had not ticked New Jerusalem (V6 7a) - he set about taking the piss, then told me to stop f*%$ing about and get it done. I've always found this problem hard but today - maybe due to being fuelled from last nights wife beaters, it went pretty easily. Yes!
Scott Gibson - New Jerusalem
Me - New Jerusalem
After lunch me and Lee headed up to Blockbuster (F7b), it was going well until I ripped off the crimp loosing 3 knuckles. Ouch! Next Time!

Me on Blockbuster, Anna on Zoo York Stand
Bye Bye Knuckles!!
Scott did the stand up the Zoo york (F7a), James and Andy spent time sieging Ben's Groove and the Sit Start.  Lee then wanted to get back on Slapstick Arete S/S (F7b) so I started the send train with a repeat to show the beta. Its a tricky arete with a couple of balancy moves.

Slapstick for the masses!
Dave and James didn't fancy it and headed to the flapjack boulder and set to work on the traverse at F7a. James did it with precise footwork and impeccable style.. I powered through it to a retro flash then the the groove S/S at F6b.  All in all it was a fab ticked filled day with great mates.

Monday, 21 March 2011

A Good Start.

It seems everyone else who climbs these days keeps a blog of what they've been upto, and as I spend most of my workday week sat in front of a screen at the cutting edge of technology, I figured it was about time I had one too.  Al Mason and Lee (Betaguides) were my inspiration, as Al said it's as much for me as anyone else - My memory is terrible at the best of times. 

With sunshine gracing us with its presence this weekend,  It would be rude not to get out both days. 

Saturday Lee and I hit Burbage North, as we started the walk in past Banana Finger Area it was clear everyone had similar ideas. It was packed with climbers on top ropes, budding tradders and what seemed like every hill walker within a 100 mile radius.

We set our stall out on the Remergance Butress,  A quick warmup on the 20 foot slab, then we set to work on the easier problems.  A Flash on Arete problem (F6b) and Remergance (F6b+) meant it was time to start on the projects.

First up was Blind Date, Lee had one sequence I had another, it felt like it was going to give up the send pretty easy at first, but neither of us could pull hard enough on the pebble to reach the top break. - Denied!  Submergance also gave us a glimmer of hope before shutting us down.  We consoled ourselves with a pint of Guiness and a KFC. 

Sunday was a day to Caley with Rock City strong man, Steve Dennison. Keen to test out his new rubber, Evolv Bandits, we headed for Otley Wall for a warmup. Steve tip toed his way to success (just) after latching the finish just as his foot popped!

Steve Dennison on Otley Wall

Next up was Crystal Method a classic Caley test piece (F7c). A blank overhanging groove starting from a huge Jug. 

Me on Crystal Method - Dalvinda Spotting.
Both Steve and I, set to work loosing skin at an alarming rate on the sharp crimp, while trying to get established.

It was looking like we would be in the pub for lunchtime, when I snatched the penultimate hold, catching us all off guard. Steve was stuffing a sarnie in his face and didn't have the camera on. I was so surprised to be at the top I over shot the finishing jug and slapped a hand full of mud, before latching the finish. Yes!  

Previous 7c's had taken at least 2 sessions, this was despatched in a couple of hours. It was time for a packet of Quavers and a brew to celebrate!