Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 27 June 2011

Seepage and Polish..

Jus and Lee at D's Brew Stop

How unlucky, the warmest day of the year so far at 28degrees and the first 3 places we try to climb are wet.. not from the rain but from the seepage. Rubicon, Raven Tor and Blackwell Dale were all gopping wet. 
We were really psyched for Kudos Traverse too, but the starting and finishing holds were wet and the whole warm-up traverse was soaked, no amount of enthusiasm was gonna dry the place out enough to climb so we consoled our selves with a brew from D's brew stop on the way out and set on our search for something dry to climb.

We ended up at the uber polished training venue of Stoney Middleton's -10 Wall.
Even in the worst of conditions this place seems to yield something to climb - even if it is a polished shit hole. My enthusiasm had taken a rite battering and I was struggling to get motivated to do anything other than eat my pack up and take the piss out of the tradders slipping and sliding on the polish. I though I was miserable but the tradders there seem to be in a whole new league of misery. Hah!

Nom Nom Nom.. Packup

Lee Booting Up

It made me smile a little so I put on the weapon of choice - Solutions and set to work trying to stand on this wet bar of soap called Stoney. After the traverses the first thing we tried was some un-named 6c thing fairly dynamic moves between good holds, after a new foot pop's and quite a bit of swearing it was sent. Next was lucifer's undercut at 7a after a few goes I was bored and moved onto "Not Neds Problem" at F7b+ this looked much better and as a bonus you couldn't see your reflection in any of the holds. A pull to a slopey lay back to a tiny crimp meant feet high and a powerful rock over to a decent edge before top. Both Lee and I crushed it 3rd go. 

Lee on Not Neds Problem F7b+

Which foothold? Are you mad?

2nd Go, left foot too low. Even chubby's can climb hard.

The Massive Crimp

Lee Crushing it.

Justine had thrown in the towel and gone to read her book in the sunshine so we decided to try the stoney classic of Tom's Original F7a up in the Cave. I reckon the climb up to to the cave is about 6a with wet mud and skate shoes.. probably slightly easier in the dry.. I'm claiming it as a tick anyhow.

The first thing we saw was drips coming through the roof, the starting and second crucial holds were soaked, but we felt as we'd made the effort to climb up there, we should make an effort to dry it out and see how it went. After deciphering the topo, I was first to go.. fighting the drips I made it on-sight.. well chuffed. Lee boarded the send train and made it first go too. Maybe this lime bouldering is making us stronger it felt pretty easy. We did try a couple of other variations but the pub was calling so after nearly falling out of the cave throwing the mats down we retreated to the Fox Houses for a well deserved Pint of Guinness!

Cheeky Egyptian Toms Cave

Toe hooks - Scott would be proud.

Tickets to the gun show.
Almost latching it!

Monday, 20 June 2011

Rest and Recover.

Unknown Climber on The Keel.

I'm really enjoying the good ol British Summer time, Thursday nights session at the cliff saw the need for a warm jacket - I thought it was supposed to be hot in June?

I decided to rest last weekend, the session on Zippy's traverse really took more skin than I realised  so I had to give it some time to recover. Luckily the weather was shite so I didnt feel like I really missed out.

There's not a great deal to report send wise this week. Tuesday I did Crack Start to Matterhorn Arete at F7a. Powerful & fingery sit start followed by a dynamic pop to a pocket, then its just the regular Arete climb. More work on the keel followed on Thursday with good progress being made thanks to Scotts beta - double toe hooking the keel. Im confident its going to be on the logbook in the next week or so.

Lee and I went to Rubicon and Raven Tor on Saturday with my replacement La Sportiva Solutions (Thanks to Mike @ Lyon for sorting this out). I worked Kudos Traverse F7b at Rubicon, but was robbed of the send twice on the last hold. With fresh arms it should go quick next time. Lee powered through it early in the session and then set to work on Kudos F7b but the traverse had taken its toll. We decided to go for an ice cream and head over to Raven Tor for a look at Weedkiller Traverse, we spent a little time working the sequence but neither of us had the power reserves to link it, so just before we left we made a quick send of "Too Hard For Mark Leach - Footless" basically just campus between decent holds for F7b. Im sure this grade was given for a joke as it feels about 6b.

No pics this week as it was raining and I didn't wanna get the camera wet so here are a couple from Google to inspire you for the limestone.

Weedkiller Traverse - Raven Tor
My Weapon of Choice

She is also wearing "solutions" 

Monday, 6 June 2011

The midges are coming.

Lee on Zippy's Traverse

This friday Scott and I went indoors to the Climbing Works with the intention of some serious training on the Beastmaker and motherboard. After warming up one some problems on the competition wall we realised it was far too hot and humid so instead opted for a spin on the new pink circuit. By the time we left we were trashed so a good workout was had. Good prep for Sunday's proposed Limestone session at Rubicon.

Unfortunately / fortunately the weather turned cool for Sunday so I met up with Lee and Ben and headed to Plantation at Stanage instead. Lee and I had unfinished business with Zippy's Traverse (Font 7b) so that was the project for the day. Took more work than we expected and even though it was in the sun it was in pretty good nick.

Zippy's Traverse

Working Hard.

Eventually after loosing plenty of skin and a couple of Lee's famous paddy's he sent it! Although i'd already taken the boots off and was ready to move on. It inspired me for one last attempt. Good job too as I despatched it that go, just holding the wild swing at the end! 

Ben and Lee then did Crescent Arete - an all time classic followed by a group tick on BullWorker (F6b). 
As we walked out I fancied a quick go on Rose and the self employed businessman at F7a+ It went Clean On sight. Winner.  

Where's the rest of him?

Cool Calm Collected. Or Shitting it?

Ben crushed it after the rain stopped his on sight.


Strong like Bull!

We celebrated out good day out with a burger and a a pint at Weatherspoon on the way home. £5.10 Bargain!