Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 27 June 2011

Seepage and Polish..

Jus and Lee at D's Brew Stop

How unlucky, the warmest day of the year so far at 28degrees and the first 3 places we try to climb are wet.. not from the rain but from the seepage. Rubicon, Raven Tor and Blackwell Dale were all gopping wet. 
We were really psyched for Kudos Traverse too, but the starting and finishing holds were wet and the whole warm-up traverse was soaked, no amount of enthusiasm was gonna dry the place out enough to climb so we consoled our selves with a brew from D's brew stop on the way out and set on our search for something dry to climb.

We ended up at the uber polished training venue of Stoney Middleton's -10 Wall.
Even in the worst of conditions this place seems to yield something to climb - even if it is a polished shit hole. My enthusiasm had taken a rite battering and I was struggling to get motivated to do anything other than eat my pack up and take the piss out of the tradders slipping and sliding on the polish. I though I was miserable but the tradders there seem to be in a whole new league of misery. Hah!

Nom Nom Nom.. Packup

Lee Booting Up

It made me smile a little so I put on the weapon of choice - Solutions and set to work trying to stand on this wet bar of soap called Stoney. After the traverses the first thing we tried was some un-named 6c thing fairly dynamic moves between good holds, after a new foot pop's and quite a bit of swearing it was sent. Next was lucifer's undercut at 7a after a few goes I was bored and moved onto "Not Neds Problem" at F7b+ this looked much better and as a bonus you couldn't see your reflection in any of the holds. A pull to a slopey lay back to a tiny crimp meant feet high and a powerful rock over to a decent edge before top. Both Lee and I crushed it 3rd go. 

Lee on Not Neds Problem F7b+

Which foothold? Are you mad?

2nd Go, left foot too low. Even chubby's can climb hard.

The Massive Crimp

Lee Crushing it.

Justine had thrown in the towel and gone to read her book in the sunshine so we decided to try the stoney classic of Tom's Original F7a up in the Cave. I reckon the climb up to to the cave is about 6a with wet mud and skate shoes.. probably slightly easier in the dry.. I'm claiming it as a tick anyhow.

The first thing we saw was drips coming through the roof, the starting and second crucial holds were soaked, but we felt as we'd made the effort to climb up there, we should make an effort to dry it out and see how it went. After deciphering the topo, I was first to go.. fighting the drips I made it on-sight.. well chuffed. Lee boarded the send train and made it first go too. Maybe this lime bouldering is making us stronger it felt pretty easy. We did try a couple of other variations but the pub was calling so after nearly falling out of the cave throwing the mats down we retreated to the Fox Houses for a well deserved Pint of Guinness!

Cheeky Egyptian Toms Cave

Toe hooks - Scott would be proud.

Tickets to the gun show.
Almost latching it!

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