Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 4 July 2011

Rubicon Sun Trap

I headed back to Rubicon this Sunday hungry for Kudos Traverse F7b+, it had alluded me on my last visit, getting to the last hold twice but lacking the energy to match for the full tick. So after a quick warm up I got straight to business. Pulled on, heel up throw for the first crimp, missed by a country mile.  Bollocks.

This sequence was repeated probably 10 times before I eventually snatched the hold. The beta came flooding back, and before I knew it i was about the make the move to the last rail again. I was pumped out of my mind, no please -  not again, don't fuck it now. I made a throw for the rail and only just got one finger to it. I summoned the crush cooper mentality - crimp the living shit out of it- and closed it down.  Yes! It had been sent, another tick in the book. I celebrated the only way I know how, by mauling a cheese butty and a coffee!

Oaksy on Rubicon F7a

Mick on Millers Tale.

Mick Red Pointing Rubicon

Go for it Mick!

Meanwhile back at the traverse area Mick & Oaksy had been red pointing Rubicon F7a. It looks a great line, massively overhanging buttress through a series of stepped holds. So after blagging a harness and chalk bag I found myself tied into the sharp end. What am I doing? I've not been on a rope for over a 18 months, should I really be trying to on-sight it? I figure my only chance of success is speed, as I wont have any endurance.

I set off up the easy wall to the first bolt and after a couple of fumbled attempts its clipped. Now its onto the steep stuff, I've seen plenty of folk fail on this while I've been bouldering by fucking about dithering around looking for intermediate holds, time to lay down the power. Holds are better than I expected but they are still fairly big moves, but the climbing seems to ease the higher I get & i'm not finding the moves too strenuous. Before you can say 'who's that fat bloke up there' i'm clipping the lower offs with a big smile on my face.  Nice!! My first outing this decade on the sport and its a F7a on sight (with beta)

Time to lay down the power

Actual footwork in use.

Rubicon F7a. 

Maybe i'll venture onto a rope again in the near future? There's a nice looking F8a called Sissy (aptly named) I may invest some time in working it.

Enough ramblings on from me, Mick, Oaksy and James sent many problems during the day. Oaksy did Rubicon in a couple of redpoints. Mick is still work in progress.
Just before we packed up James and I did another un-named traverse at F7a, it was a pumpy little number but went first go.

Mick Loves his traverses

Wolfman in full flow

James making short work off the lower traverse.

Meercat impersonating dog!

No comments:

Post a Comment