Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 11 July 2011

Porridge & Nutella

Breakfast was Porridge with Nutella, and a strong coffee, the best way to start a days climbing I reckon.
I then packed the lunchbox with the leftovers from last nights chinese take-away - No 68. Chicken Fried Rice and set course for a day on the Peak Lime.

Lee and I met up with Dave at the warmup area of Rubicon, Lee had beef to settle with Kudos and we even brought a rope with the intention of red pointing Salar at 3 bolt, bouldery F8a. However those plans quickly changed when we discovered we'd left the clip-stick in the van back at home.

Dave was working the lower traverse at F6b, Lee and I flashed the 3 traverse pump fest, start on the lower traverse F6b, get to the end, move to the middle F6a+, then onto the top traverse F5+ all as one continuous problem.  Its definitely a route not a problem my forearms were screaming!

Rubicon's Traverse Area
It was time Lee faced his nemesis - Kudos. It looked like it was going to get sent first got, he was denied by a foot slip. The next few goes saw him getting close but still not enough to reach the last hold... A tantrum was brewing. As a family of walkers stopped to watch him, he slipped off the last hold going for the match! The paddy was unleashed with almighty fury, I think even the dog was scarred. He was not a happy bunny. I've never heard so many profanities in one scream!

While Lee calmed down, I set to work on A Bigger Tail F7a, Jump to a rail, crimp the shit out of some small ledges to a small crimpy 2 finger pocket, then, pop to a big jug to finish just above the first bolt.
Shit, thats high maybe 4 meters and i'm jumping for it Hmm...
After a couple of goes i'm at the crimpy pocket and eyeing up the last hold.. I make a jump for it but miss... slam... into the mats.. thats scary. But at least I know the falls safe. A short rest later and I'm back at the jug about the make the jump. This time its a success, the top it latched and its massive. Excellent. Now the scary bit, I look down at the mat and have to let go. As usual victory is marked with food, time for my chicken fried rice.

Lee got back on Kudos and this time smashed its back doors in!

Brush it

Crimp It

Foot Up

Latch it. 

Lee and I decided to give Blackwell Dale a try, its the new Peak Guide and the lines looks pretty good. We arrived at the Cave - that looks a stinking dirty shit hole so we hopped over the road the little buttress and set to work on Red or Dead. F7a+. Lee quickly figured out the sequence and has it wired in no time.. before we knew it, he was on the top holds another tick for Crush Cooper. I was lacking the motivation, feeling drained. I had a few goes and could do it in 2 sections but couldn't link it. 

A flick in the guide revealed Jerry's Traverse at F7a+ this looked good, Lee set off making good progress, I put the boots on again after a good rest and got the middle first go but felt knackered. Next go I went all out and pulled a new sequence out of the bag for the crux in the middle and although I was fighting the pump managed to get to the end for the tick. I had officially emptied the power reserves. 
Lee carried on working the crux and could do it on its own but didn't have the juice left to link it. 

A good day out again with 2 new 7's each. We both agree the lime is making us stronger. We also both agreed we should have a pint of Guinness and a Stake and Ale pie at the Moon Inn - Stoney Middleton So we did.

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