Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 28 March 2011

Back to Caley

This weekend was a return trip to Caley with a truckload of folks keen to prove their metal on the many classic test pieces. There was even a rumour Andy Jennings of Fontainebleau might make an appearance. I had a new custom T-Shirt to show off from BlockDesigns.  It sum's up my climbing style perfectly!


With us all in still in a slight haze from the previous nights alcohol intake we set out warming up by Psycho slab, it was soon onto fork lightening crack (V4 6a) which is always harder then it appears - no matter how many times I do it. The onto the traverse into lightening crack at F6c. Both were despatched for the camera's in usual style - pretty much footless. The girls showed us that you could actually use feet.

Anna Shepherd on Fork Lightening Crack
Scott then discovered I still had not ticked New Jerusalem (V6 7a) - he set about taking the piss, then told me to stop f*%$ing about and get it done. I've always found this problem hard but today - maybe due to being fuelled from last nights wife beaters, it went pretty easily. Yes!
Scott Gibson - New Jerusalem
Me - New Jerusalem
After lunch me and Lee headed up to Blockbuster (F7b), it was going well until I ripped off the crimp loosing 3 knuckles. Ouch! Next Time!

Me on Blockbuster, Anna on Zoo York Stand
Bye Bye Knuckles!!
Scott did the stand up the Zoo york (F7a), James and Andy spent time sieging Ben's Groove and the Sit Start.  Lee then wanted to get back on Slapstick Arete S/S (F7b) so I started the send train with a repeat to show the beta. Its a tricky arete with a couple of balancy moves.

Slapstick for the masses!
Dave and James didn't fancy it and headed to the flapjack boulder and set to work on the traverse at F7a. James did it with precise footwork and impeccable style.. I powered through it to a retro flash then the the groove S/S at F6b.  All in all it was a fab ticked filled day with great mates.

No comments:

Post a Comment