Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 21 March 2011

A Good Start.

It seems everyone else who climbs these days keeps a blog of what they've been upto, and as I spend most of my workday week sat in front of a screen at the cutting edge of technology, I figured it was about time I had one too.  Al Mason and Lee (Betaguides) were my inspiration, as Al said it's as much for me as anyone else - My memory is terrible at the best of times. 

With sunshine gracing us with its presence this weekend,  It would be rude not to get out both days. 

Saturday Lee and I hit Burbage North, as we started the walk in past Banana Finger Area it was clear everyone had similar ideas. It was packed with climbers on top ropes, budding tradders and what seemed like every hill walker within a 100 mile radius.

We set our stall out on the Remergance Butress,  A quick warmup on the 20 foot slab, then we set to work on the easier problems.  A Flash on Arete problem (F6b) and Remergance (F6b+) meant it was time to start on the projects.

First up was Blind Date, Lee had one sequence I had another, it felt like it was going to give up the send pretty easy at first, but neither of us could pull hard enough on the pebble to reach the top break. - Denied!  Submergance also gave us a glimmer of hope before shutting us down.  We consoled ourselves with a pint of Guiness and a KFC. 

Sunday was a day to Caley with Rock City strong man, Steve Dennison. Keen to test out his new rubber, Evolv Bandits, we headed for Otley Wall for a warmup. Steve tip toed his way to success (just) after latching the finish just as his foot popped!

Steve Dennison on Otley Wall

Next up was Crystal Method a classic Caley test piece (F7c). A blank overhanging groove starting from a huge Jug. 

Me on Crystal Method - Dalvinda Spotting.
Both Steve and I, set to work loosing skin at an alarming rate on the sharp crimp, while trying to get established.

It was looking like we would be in the pub for lunchtime, when I snatched the penultimate hold, catching us all off guard. Steve was stuffing a sarnie in his face and didn't have the camera on. I was so surprised to be at the top I over shot the finishing jug and slapped a hand full of mud, before latching the finish. Yes!  

Previous 7c's had taken at least 2 sessions, this was despatched in a couple of hours. It was time for a packet of Quavers and a brew to celebrate!

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