Puntering Hard Boulder Problems One At A Time.

Monday, 18 April 2011

Fish n Chips Please Mate!

It started with a txt that said... "Kyloe this weekend big lad?"
It could only have been from Crush Cooper.  It was on.  

Andy Jennings used his spidey sense and called to say he was coming too and even better he's booked us in at the joiners workshop bunkhouse. Star man! Friday eve was a race up north in the mighty derv burner, slowed only by the governments cash convertor's - average speed check. 50mph please and the overwhelming urge to call in at the Wetherby Whaler for an early supper!

Saturday's venue of choice was Kyloe In the Woods - The home of hard bastards like Malc Smith and hard climbing.

Andy Jennings at Kyloe In The Woods
A leisurely pace was set on the warm up's ticking through Bad Company, Bad Finger, Not Bad, Red Rum, Elf Arete all around F6a -F6b+. I felt the need to see if we were stronger than last visit by getting back on Monty Python's Direct at F6c+. A new sequence meant I was at the top in only a couple of goes. A vast improvement on last years 20 odd attempts! The Jennings made it look effortless as always.

Monty Python Direct
 Jocks and Geordies (F6c & F7a s/s) is another classic problem, nice moves laying off a side pull to a massive span to a little crimp high on the crag. Jennings and Lee made short work of it, I had my doubts about the reach to the top, I pulled on and was at the top of the side pull, it looked further than it did from the ground - there was an udge, a bit of finger walking and finally a little pop for the break - Latch & Despatch! I then repeated adding the sit start, it was just as hard second time round but just as satisfying.

Lee had his sights set on Nadster a F7b+ slab climb.. I was not enthused, me, on a slab, with my footwork, your having a laugh pal. 

Andy showed the way catching spotter Lee off guard, he was busy shoving half a loaf of Soreen down! I had a couple of goes at the start and couldn't even get off the deck - it was shit canned and I set to work demolishing lunch. Meanwhile Lee was making excellent progress. 

Stuff that Soreen Lee!
Lee on Nadster F7b+
While stuffing down a some cheese on crackers I had some inspiration to give it another go using some beta from Andy I pulled on and made decent progress I'de got half way up.. nice! A short rest later and I was back on and at the penultimate hold. Maybe, just maybe.. but denied by sweaty palms and fingers! I had the hunger for it now.. it was gonna go! 10 mins later I was back in the same place with the same sweaty palms, but this time it stuck and I latched the top! Victory over slabs - i'll savour this moment as it will be a rare occurrence. 

We came across an Adder (Sid) on the walk out, turned out it was a dead one.. we took the opportunity for some candid photo's and piss taking. 

Sunday we headed and Andy's favourite crag - Bowden.
Many fantastic font style problems along an impressive edge some more routes than problems.

We stared on the lightbulb a wicked little F6a boulder spoiled only by the sandiness, then the classic Childs Play F6b - flashes on both we were on form. The Arete of Playtime gave more of a challenge, denied twice before topping out! 

The Lightbulb
In between sunbathing and eating we also flashed Scooped Wall F6b and Crescent Flake F6a. The sun was starting to take its toll - we were all becoming very lethargic and rest times crept up. 

Andy was practically asleep. Lee and I headed over to Flying Fish... looked good, looked pretty hard and pretty damn high... turned out it gets F6a+ - My Arse. 
As we pulled on the starting undercuts it was clear skin was becoming short in supply, so I put in an all out effort and flashed it, felt harder than its given grade but climbs brilliantly.. The top out was easy but bloody high and sandy. Andy woke up, rubbed his eyes and flashed it.. impressive! He also managed to tick Dog eat Dog too at F7a. I didn't have the skin left to top it out..Gutted! We crashed at the pub for a well earned pint before setting off home, with again only one stop - The Wetherby Whaler! 

Thanks for a great weekend lads! - Until the next one!

Lee on Childsplay
Andy on Staggered F7b
Lee pushed him over.
Childsplay.. Isn't

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